Amsterdam: Relaxation

Exhausted from my ordeal from the night before, I slept while Julia and Stephen went to the Van Gogh museum. We had a relaxing lunchtime with beer that we had bought from the brewery in Bruges, while I booked everything for the rest of my trip.

We walked through the market that was right outside of the apartment and got some poffertjes that were first recommended to us by our Aunt Connie. They are mini pancakes that have powdered sugar dumped on them, are slathered in syrup and then melt in your mouth.

Julia and I then biked through Vondelpark, which is the largest park in Amsterdam. It was perfect weather for a bike ride and people-watching is surprisingly easy from atop a bicycle.

We rendezvoused back at the apartment for a delicious dinner that Stephen had picked up for us and then opted for taking the 15 minute metro ride to the Ajax football (soccer) game, instead of a 40 minute bike ride.

It was incredible to go to a soccer game in a stadium that fits over 50,000 and see the stadium full with cheering and whistling fans. You would never see that for a soccer game in the States. There was a huge section for the team club that didn’t take a single break from singing or chanting the entire game. It was awesome.

It was raining when we left the stadium; I think that we were all more than grateful that were not riding bikes. The metro was a madhouse when we left, with drunk people pushing through the crowds, yelling, “personnel!” and then stumbling up the stairs singing songs, giving away the fact that they were not personnel.

We had a relaxing evening of drinking tea and chatting and blogging in the wonderful apartment.

A small break from hostel life isn’t so bad.

My blog name couldn't be more fitting

My original plan was to meet up with Julia and Steve at their Airbnb apartment at 8:30am…. You’ll find out later that even though I decided to meet them at the train station instead, I wouldn’t have made it to their apartment anyway and could have screwed up the plans for the whole day.

We headed to Alkmaar for the famous cheese market. Now, this is no regular cheese market, mind you. This is a market for the people that make the cheese to sell it to the people that sell the cheese… (I’m sure Julia has a much more efficient way of saying that in her blog.)

It was so funny to watch these guys in their “uniforms” running the cheese to and fro, across the square as it was auctioned off. A choice few also had the privilege of riding in the… cheese carrier things (also sure that Julia knows the fancy term for that).

The cheese inspectors were so intense.

After lunch, we headed to the Rijksmuseum. It was the first time for all of us. Although, I think that Julia and I were the ones that were actually excited about it. Julia and I love to walk through museums at similar paces so that we can ponder the symbolism of certain paintings. I really hope that people don’t listen to such conversations… Let’s just say we don’t sound like art experts when we discuss the meaning of Hals and Rembrandt’s depictions of peasants.

“How drunk do you think that guy there in the corner is?”

“Well, you see the way that lady is helping him stand up? I think that means…”

Those are the kinds of discussions that we have.

After the Rijksmuseum, Steve and Julia headed to the Anne Frank house (which I had been to this past winter). I took this opportunity to meet up with my friends (Max and John) from the night before and hang out and shoot some pool. I lost. Terribly. Upon realizing that they hadn’t gone exploring yet, I took the opportunity to give them a tour of my favorite city. I tried the whole “even though this is a free walking tour, I make my living based on tips” speech that I’ve heard on walking tours, but to no avail.

We waded in the water in Museumplein that I had gone ice-skating on this past winter. THAT was awesome. There are so many things that can be seen in a mile radius, so I really enjoyed just walking around and seeing my favorite sites and describing why I like them so much. I don’t know how much they were listening to all my “fun facts;” I’m sure they would’ve failed a pop quiz if I had given one… I guess my teaching side comes out when Julia is not around.

Julia, Stephen and I then met up for a canal tour. A must for Amsterdam. We went right at dusk and got to see the bridges all lit up which was just perfection. I decided that since the weekend prices for all of the hostels went up so much that I might as well just stay at the apartment with Julia and Stephen, so I headed back to my hostel to grab my bag while Julia and Stephen hung out in Dam Square. As we were walking to their apartment, I started realizing how far away it was. I went most of the way with them, but then Julia ended up carrying my bag for the last bit because I had plans to meet up with Max and John. We set up a time for me to be back so that she could set her alarm and I could buzz in.

We went to some cool places, meeting people from New Zealand that thought that we had the coolest American accents. It’s so strange how much I hear that when I’m abroad. I always answer with an “I don’t have an accent,” and then people look at me like I’m crazy and laugh.

We ended up just wandering along the canals and lit-up bridges, which, in my humble opinion, is Amsterdam at its finest. I figured that since I had a map, and I know Amsterdam pretty well, that I could just find where I was on the map when I had to go and find Julia’s apartment. This was not the case. This actually turned into what I should have in the “about me” section for my blog, which is all too accurately entitled, “The diary of a directionally challenged traveler.”

I could not for the life of me find where I was on the map. So, instead I would think that I recognized a street, go down it, recognize a landmark, walk to that, recognize another street and then literally be back in the same spot 15 minutes later, flabbergasted as to how I even got there. And then the same exact thing would happen again because I would recognize street names BECAUSE I HAD JUST BEEN DOWN THERE. Of course, Max thought that it was too funny to watch me walk in circles to help.

I don’t know how many people will get this reference, but I was watching The Two Towers the following night, and remember the very beginning when Frodo and Sam are wandering around? Sam says something to the effect of, “This looks strangely familiar.” Frodo responds with, "It’s because we’ve been here before… we’re going in circles!” That was us. Except they ended up with a really creepy guide name Gollum, and I ended up asking drunk people for directions and getting even more lost. But you can see the similarities.

SOMEHOW, (after two hours of being hopelessly lost), I FINALLY wandered onto a street that I could find on my map, and with a few mistakes, arrived at Julia’s apartment. Now, believe it or not, I didn’t panic during this ordeal. I knew I was going to find my way. That’s one thing I love about traveling by myself. I often end up taking the long way to get to things, but I always get there because I don’t get stressed about leading people in the wrong direction. When it’s just me? I don’t really care. It means I’ve found another route, that’s all!

The one thing that I was worried about, though, was that Julia would be worried about me. Thankfully, she went back to sleep, trusting that I would find my way home… and I did! When I buzzed to get into the apartment, she woke right up, let me in and I just stood there, AMAZED that I had arrived.

So, yes, I am directionally challenged, but to my defense, not all of the street names were on my map.

You gotta go with the flow

Julia and I were planning on leaving for Arnhem (an open air museum) at 6 the next morning. People at the pub tour kept laughing at us saying that there was no way that we were going to make it. Turns out they were right.

Julia woke up late, and messaged me saying that she hadn't woken up and that I should meet them in Amsterdam. I had decided to not go to sleep and just stay up and hang out with my British friends. Until about an hour before we were supposed to leave. I changed my mind and decided to take a quick nap... without an alarm. Translation: I was dead to the world.

I awoke to Julia standing over me. Now, mind you, she was staying at a different hostel. My morning brain couldn't wrap around the concept that she was in my room. Here's what happened... Excerpts from Julia's Facebook messages to me:

So...I missed the train.

I can't believe it! I may just be going to Amsterdam after all. Did u end up leaving? 

I realized you can't leave without a ticket, and I don't think you have €30 . . . Steve just left for Amsterdam, and I'm currently at Starbucks at the train station. When you wake up, let me know.

I'm contemplating coming to your hostel to wake you up, but I don't feel like your hostel owners are going to be thrilled with me going through all the rooms...

Not to be creepy, but I'm at your hostel :)

I figured Julia's messages would explain the ordeal much better than I could. So Julia's standing over my bed and she said, "It's almost 11am." I laughed... "What time is it really?" 
"11am."

OH. Wellll Amsterdam here we come! Good thing we like it there. As most travel days go, we enjoy them as much as other days but there's not much to tell... we slept, we chatted, we read, we slept. It was GREAT.

I got someone at Starbucks to give me free water. THAT was awesome.

When we arrived in Amsterdam, I bade Julia farewell, and ventured into the city to find a cheap hostel. This is the first time I had arrived in a city without a reservation. Definitely more work to walk around with a backpack asking people if they have room than it is to just surf the web. 

I finally found one within my price range. Well, within my price range for one night. The price, of course, doubles on the weekends. So I booked for one night. Julia, Stephen and I then met up to watch the sunset at the library. Or watch the nighttime rather... It was rather dark by the time we got up there, but it was gorgeous! 

It's always fun to meet up with each other again after splitting up. We got to hear all about Stephen's first day exploring Amsterdam and Julia and I got to tell what we thought were awesome travel day stories.

We then walked through the red light district to get to Dam Square and it was then (as we passed my hostel) that I realized that I had booked my hostel in the red light district. I mean, it really is a great location though... close to everything. 

We then split up and I went back to the hostel to work. Shortly after, one of my new roommates arrived and five minutes later I was out exploring the red light district with Max (my roommate) and a Canadian guy, John, that he had met earlier that day. Now, this may sound super sketchy to you, but it's really not. I mean I had already seen Max in his boxers (because we were staying in the same room, mind you) so why not go exploring with him? THAT is one thing that I learned from this trip... travelers are nice. If they want to hang out... HANG OUT. 

Now, I know what you're thinking... "This, coming from the girl who just had her wallet stolen?" That is totally different.

Anyway. I, somehow, immediately became the guide. They didn't realize at the time how horrible of a decision that was. It does help that, as a girl, you can ask just about anyone for directions and they are more than happy to assist you. So I guess I did a lot more of that than actually guiding. Never found where we wanted to go BUT we did find some exquisite bars and explored some cool coffeeshops. 

Since this was my fourth time in Amsterdam, I think it is about time that I explored the nightlife and it was AWESOME. Since marijuana is legal in Amsterdam, everyone there is just relaxing at night, not going berzerk like in many other cities. Just another reason to love it.

We ran through the rain, chatted by the canals and made plans for the next day. 

Will I move there? ...Someday. Hopefully.

Bruges does not disappoint.

In the morning, Steve and Julia climbed the bell tower while I chilled at my hostel and chatted with people at breakfast. We then met up at De Halve Maan Brewery for a tour. I had tried (and failed) to get into this tour on my first visit to Bruges, so I was beyond excited to be able to do it this time around. (Phil and Melissa have raved about it.) The lady giving the tour was incredibly funny (well at least Julia and I thought so, as you could tell by our obnoxious laughs).

There was also an incredible view from the top of the brewery. A plus, for sure. 

I would recount everything that we learned, but frankly, I don't think that you care. We then had an AMAZING lunch of Belgian fries with dipping sauce and bitterballen... which, honestly, I don't know how to explain. We sat in the square, once again, for lunch, which just has amazing people-watching.

We then went on a canal tour of Bruges, which I would highly recommend.

Now, I was sure that I had heard that Bruges is the "Venice of the North." Julia was sure that she had heard that about Amsterdam... or maybe another city? After this tour though, I think we all agreed that it has to be Bruges. The peeling paint and cobblestone streets give it the "preserved from the past" feel that we all adore. 

Biking was next on the itinerary. Amazing how much of Bruges you can see in an hour and a half on a bike! As long as you don't get run over, that is. Or crash. Those things may have almost happened to Julia several times. And she was our leader. 

I don't think we ever quite figured out the bike rules of Bruges. Right when we thought that we understood what the signs were saying, someone would yell out at us, "wrong side!" or something else to that effect. BUT all in all, it was a wonderful experience and the perfect way to explore Bruges.

Julia had a walking tour she wanted to go on (one that she found in her guidebook). So we walked around to different sites while Julia read to us all about them. There really is lots of cool history in Bruges. (I mean I was paying attention, but you can get more details on the history from her.) One of the stops was this really cool park which is actually the courtyard of a convent (I think). Anyway, Julia and I thought it was really relaxing (you weren't really allowed to talk). So we wandered through it, enjoying the peace. Stephen also found it quite... serene.

For dinner, we went to the Flemish Pot, which served traditional Flemish stew. There is also a "Frites Angel" who comes around and continuously offers you more fries. So cool.

After dinner, Julia and I headed for the pub tour. We weren't entirely sure what to expect, but were very pleasantly surprised. There were some really cool places to drink the wonderful beer of Bruges. Also, some very interesting people to drink the beer with. From "Creepy Tom" (who I think may be the local drunk) to the Canadian in the British marines. To Creepy Tom's credit, he introduced us to some great beer (I think it may have helped that he works at the beer museum: drunk, but knowledgable). We also met a guy from New Jersey, who had grown up about 15 minutes away from us. Funny how you have to go abroad to meet people that grew up down the street!

Our guide was terrible. Funny, but terrible. He would bring us into places and then disappear. One time he disappeared for so long that one of the British guys started leading the tour. He had a British accent, so naturally I followed. 

After a great night of hanging out with some awesome Brits and Americans, (whilst running from the locals) we hit the hay much later than planned, which may or may not have affected our plans for the next day. See next post for details.

On small towns and busy trains

Tuesday, we explored Delft. This town is so quaint and beautiful. I could just wander through it all day and be completely content. 

I went to the Royal Delft museum which was outstanding. Hard to find - but totally worth it once you do. (I had looked for this museum when I was in Delft in February, but never found it.) Thankfully Julia was here this time to provide me with directions.

Rembrandt's "Night's Watch" painted in Delft blue on tiles. It took over a year to complete.

We then met up for a delicious lunch of kroket, which is absolutely one of my new favorite things. I'm thinking about getting some right now actually. Steve and I then gave Julia 45 minutes to go to the Vermeer Center (Steve and I both agree that she has a bit of a weird obsession with Johannes Vermeer), while he and I shopped. I found an awesome ring and some cheese and mustard. SUCCESS. 

We then headed to the train station feeling fully accomplished. (They also went to the two churches in town, which are both beautiful.)

Delft is beautiful, am I right?

We ended up not making the train that we thought we were going to; Julia and I happily set up in Starbucks as we waited and Stephen sulked (a little). Not only did he have to wait, but he was now headed out of the Netherlands (to Bruges). He wanted to stay in the Netherlands.

I got my wallet out to swipe my card as we got on the train, and then put it back in my bag. We ended up standing behind these Asian chicks that were taking FOREVER to put their bags away. Five minutes after we sat down, I realized that my wallet was gone. 

Side note... I will admit that my guard was a tiny bit down. I trust Dutch people. Now, Rome or Paris? I'd be clinging to my bag like it's a lifeline. But the Dutch? They're just so nice.

I told the conductors right away, but there was nothing they could do. I had only walked through one train car, so I knew that someone in that particular car had stolen my wallet (most likely while I was waiting behind those girls). Looking under their seats and glaring at them didn't make anyone fess up, so I entered my state of depression. (AKA I slept). Julia woke me up for the next train, and I was then over it. Nothing I could do about it. And thankfully it happened when I was with her and not alone! 

When we were on the next train, I looked at Julia with a sudden realization. "I am so happy that my wallet got stolen and not Steve's. I don't think he could have handled it." She agreed. Although some Belgians almost accidentally took his bag which I think almost gave him a heart attack. That was entertaining. 

Next stop: BRUGES. Nothing could ruin my mood upon entering this wonderful town. Well, there was a really bad smell at the train station (like rotten sauerkraut), but we just moved away from that. From this point on, Julia was my sugar mamma. She was thankfully more than willing to take on the role. 

After checking into our hostels, we met up in the square and enjoyed some fries under the bell tower. We then went to a wonderful bar where I was able to use my knowledge of Belgian beer to order some of my faves: some Chimay and Rochefort 8. To Die For.

I then returned to my hostel, where, after trying (and failing) to contact my banks to cancel my cards, I called the two people who were completely unsurprised by my predicament. Phil and Melissa, of course. I FaceTimed them while they called my banks on speaker phone... and through spotty reception (Melissa, at times having to pretend to be me) and over an hour's time, the task was complete. 

I then settled in to relax and blog in my hostel's bar. I ended up chatting with the bartender, who, when no one else was left in the bar, asked if I would like another small drink. (I figured, yeah, I could take a small beer.) He returned with a shot of his personal collection of scotch. THAT is what he meant by a small drink. After taking at least twenty minutes to finish the scotch, I headed to bed with high expectations for the day to come.

If the day my wallet got stolen ended so well, I can handle ANYTHING.

Destination: The Netherlands

Since I stayed so close to the train station, my exit from Germany went very smoothly. After a couple of changes, I arrived in Rotterdam. When I was there this past winter, I only saw a block of the city because I was too cold. So, I was able to appreciate the city much more in the gorgeous summer weather of the Netherlands.

After only a small detour, I made it to my hostel and, after getting rid of all my stuff, headed to the train station to meet up with Julia and Stephen! We then wandered around Rotterdam, and it was just gorgeous. It was really cool just to see how Dutch people live (OK pretty much the same as us, but it was fun to explore a non-tourist area).

We went to an awesome courtyard for lunch, a library, a market, the harbor and so many beautiful places... and I have no pictures because now that I was with Julia, I could now rely on her for pictures. 

While we were exploring the city, a man came up to us on a bike asking for money because his bag had been stolen and his wife was trying to figure it out at the station... blah blah blah... I looked at Julia with a flabbergasted expression on my face. It was the same exact man who had asked me for money 6 months earlier in the Rotterdam station. AND IT WAS THE SAME STORY. I had gotten confused and given him money that time, but no such confusion happened this time. I made sure that we continued on.

We had an incredible assortment of appetizers and fondu for dinner which we all LOVED. I had to leave dinner early for an interview (yay!) and after that realized that even though it was 9:30 it was still light out. Perfect time for a run. It was so cool to run while hundreds of people that live in the city were out running too. I wasn't sure where to go, but Rotterdam has running paths along the water and over the bridges, so it was probably the most beautiful run that I have ever been on.

On missing trains, turns and trails.

Sunday morning I woke up to a German woman... talking to me in German. I looked at her, kind of still thinking I was in a dream and just smiled and rolled over. In hindsight that was quite rude of me. Oops. 

I then got up, shook off my state of confusion and headed for the castle walls. My plan was to walk to this one tower that I saw off in the distance and then turn around. Problem was, when I reached the tower, I realized that I could go still higher up the mountain for a better view. 

So a twenty minute walk in my flip flops and travel hat turned into a gorgeous hike that I was very unprepared for. So worth it. 

I took a later boat from Bacharach to St. Goar for more views of castles and vineyards. Rick Steves had a wonderful tour in his book, describing each castle and detailing legendary tales. For example...

There are killer reefs on the Rhine called "The Seven Maidens." And legend has it that the prince of Shonburg castle had seven spoiled daughters who always dumped men because of the shortcomings. Fed up, he invited seven of his best knights to the castle and demanded that they each choose one to marry. But they complained that each man had too big a nose, was too fat, too stupid and so on. The rude girls escaped into a riverboat where further downstream, God turned them into the seven rocks that form this reef.

I was cracking up while cruising down the Rhine... hopefully this story isn't true because I feel like I would probably end up being the eighth maiden.

Upon arrival in St. Goar, I was of a one track mind: find a place to put my backpack. So, I asked around and found a hotel that let me drop my bag there, taking pictures of the surrounding area to make sure I could find the place again. You never know. 

I stopped in one shop, curious as to what they might sell, and was immediately met with a shot of brandy... to "better enjoy my shopping experience." If all shopping was like that, I think I would find myself shopping a bit more.

Lunch was next on the itinerary. I went to Gasthaus Zur Krone which had exceptional food and the best Riesling wine that I have ever had. Next on the to-do list for St. Goar was to go to Rheinfels Castle, which is supposed to be the best castle on the Rhine to explore. I started off up the mountain towards the castle, taking the scenic route, which I personally found very confusing. And after second guessing myself and backtracking several times, I arrived at the castle. (I think that all the trails actually might have led to the castle...)

Rick Steves has a great tour of the castle which I dutifully followed. 

I, of course, was cutting it close with time, and had to rush down the mountain. I decided to run through town (because I had to pick up my bag before heading to the train station), reassuring myself that I wouldn't see any of these people again, so it was fine. Of course, the spot where I left my bag was a lot further than I realized, so I had to run once I had my backpack on too. Got some looks for sure. I made it to the train station and ran up the stairs and there was my train!... on the opposite side. So, I ran over there and reached the train right as it was pulling away. 

Well so much for not seeing any of these people again. I took the opportunity to grab a spot and relax with some more Riesling. It wasn't so bad getting some extra time in St. Goar.

Next stop was Cologne, Germany. After settling into my hostel, I decided that it was about time I ate some dinner... seeing as it was around 10pm. I set out to a street that I was told had pizzerias and Turkish places. If you tell me that there's a place that I can get falafel, there's no turning back. So I kept walking and walking (passing tons of pizza places, of course). I eventually found a currywurst bar which I also love, so it was a win. 

I had gotten to this place by walking through a roundabout. Turns out... I took the wrong street when I walked back through. And didn't realize it for at least thirty minutes. I would think that I was going the wrong way and then convince myself that I had just seen something that I recognized. I also thought that maybe I had walked farther than I thought because my mind had been so set on falafel. But no, I had only walked about 10 or 15 minutes to find food. And then thirty minutes in the wrong direction. 

I'll have you know that I made it back to my hostel in one piece, bringing my wonderful days in Germany to an end.